Aaron Eichelberger's Portfolio
Photography 1:

In Photography 1, we learned the basics about photography. We learned how to use our cameras and do everything manually, such as set ISO, check the light meter, use correct aperture, and much more. I had a lot of fun in photography 1 and loved learning how to use my camera manually. During the semester, we focused on small projects that we had about a week to work on, if we were lucky we got the weekend to shoot. Overall, it was a great experience and made me want to further my career as a photographer.

Aperture:
Aperture affects exposure and depth of field, it refers to the size of the opening in the lens which determines the amount of light being applied to the film or sensor. The smaller the f/stop, less of the photo is in focus, the bigger the f/stop, more of the photo is in focus.
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The apertures for the above photos are as follows. f/5,f/14,f/32. In the first photo, having an f/5 makes the object(s) in the foreground sharp and the object(s) in the background out of focus.

Shutter speed:
Shutter speed determines how long (measurement of time) the film or sensor is exposed to the light. The shutter speeds are expressed in fractions of seconds,
i.e 30" ---> 1/4000. The best shutter speed determines on your situation and how much lighting there is.
Shortest --> Fastest
To freeze the action(s) you want to have a shutter speed of 1/250 or higher. For panning, you MUST be on a shutter speed of 1/30 whilst following your subject during the exposure, nothing should be in the way of the object you're panning. i.e parking meters, stop signs, light posts etc.
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The shutter speed for the above photos are as follows. 1/320 sec. 6 sec. 1/30 sec. Having a shutter speed of 1/320 seconds freezes the object in motion, whereas having a shutter speed of 1/30 seconds shows the motion your object is making.

Mergers:
Everyone can spot a merger, for example, there's a pole or tree coming out of someones head. All these funny photos are considered mergers, a merger is when a key part of your subject overlaps with another key object or touch the sides of the frame. You can also create mergers by cutting off a subject at any of the following areas.
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In the first photo, I created a merger by having the pole go through her, in the second photo I had to fix the merger so I got closer and went to her side. Now the last one had to be a funny merger, there is a stop sign going through her head and a light post going through her hand.

Rule of thirds:
Imagine breaking down an image into thirds, both horizontally and vertically, so you have 9 sections. The theory is that if you place your points of interest in the intersections or along the lines, your photo becomes more balanced and will enable a viewer of that image to interact with it more naturally.
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There are 24 areas where you can put your subject. (displayed above.)
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The areas I used are as follows: left bottom cross hair, left line, and upper right box.

Field of View: (Focal Length)
The focal length of a lens is defined as the distance in mm from the optical center of the lens to the focal point.
The field of view (FOV) is determined by the angle of view from the lens out to the scene and can be measured horizontally or vertically.
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The Reason:
In 35 mm photography, lenses with a focal length of 50 mm are called "normal" because they work without reduction or magnification and create images the way we see with our naked eyes (46*)
Wide angle lenses (fort focal length) capture more/ have a wider picture angle while the lenses (long FL) have a narrow angle.
Typical Focal Lengths:
<20 mm super wide angle
24 mm-35 mm wide angle (49 mm)
50 mm- normal lens (neutral)
20 mm-300 mm telephoto
>300 mm super telephoto
18 mm-55 mm (small lens)
55 mm-250 mm (big lens)
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ISO:
Indication of how sensitive a film was to light.
(100,200,300,400,800,1600 etc.)
the LOWER the ISO, the MORE sensitive the film= LESS grain/finer grain->(noise)
In digital photography, ISO measures the sensitivity of the image sensor.
ISO affects the noise (grain) in photos.
Higher ISO= noisier shots
When shooting outside while it's sunny, or when you have a tripod, you always want the lowest ISO (100,) it makes the colors in your photo brighter and more beautiful, whereas shooting indoors or when it's super cloudy, you want to have a higher ISO so your photo isn't under exposed (too dark.)
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Portraits:
Portraits are photographs of a person that capture their beauty. You can do so many things with portraits that have to do with lighting, positioning, location, etc. When taking a portrait, you want to make sure you have a good location picked out, I have learned about 20 techniques to help improve portraiture skills. Now of course I'm not going to list them all but here are a few. Alter your perspective and change your angle, introduce a prop, let your model have fun with a prop and capture them having fun, last but not least, obscure part of the subject, if your model has brilliant ocean blue eyes, make them pop and zoom into them while using a scarf to bring out the colors in their eyes.
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In the above photos, I used three techniques, Change your angle, introduce a prop, and focus on a body part.

Landscape:
Some people may get nature photography and landscape photography confused but trust me when I say landscapes and nature are completely different genres of photography. With landscapes, you don't have any close-ups, you want to be at an aperture of f/16 and want to have an ISO of 100 for rich color and sharp photographs. You always want to use a tripod to make sure your horizon line isn't tilted and have a smooth, painter-like photo for water. You CAN NOT have a landscape without a horizon. You must have a focal point that your eye stops at. Along with having a straight horizon comes with not having your horizon centered. Think about your foreground and how you want it to look like or what you want in it. If you have too much sky on a blue bird day, that just makes your photo boring to look at, if your sky is just plain blue, make your horizon towards the top of the photo and if you have a very busy sky where the clouds look stunning, make your horizon towards the bottom of the photograph. If there is a waterfall in your landscape, use a slow shutter so that the water has a painter-like feel to it. Landscape photography is usually shot at a wide angle (under 50 mm) unless you are shooting far, far away. You can create a lot of moods with landscapes just based on the sky and how the weather is that day.
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Photography 2:
In photo 2 we had more freedom in what we did, for example, we choose our projects and we are able to use Photoshop on our photos. If you don't like having critique for a few days in photo 1, I recommend not taking photo 2 because critique takes at the minimum a week. During photo 2, you get four weeks to shoot your project, edit them, and turn them in, sure it sounds like a lot of time but it goes by really fast and you're trying to do everything the night before and it just doesn't work. After critique is over, we sit in a circle and share our ideas for our next project. HINT: Take notes on what other people say, they might interest you too!
Project 1:For project 1, I did portraits again because I wanted to retry them and see if I improved. I didn't take senior portraits, just regular portraits. When critique came around, everyone said that they seemed like experimenting with lighting more than they did portraits. I took the constructive criticism very well and researched more on portraiture.eichelberger_portraits01.jpgeichelberger_portraits02_copy.jpgeichelberger_portraits03.jpgeichelberger_portraits04_copy.jpgeichelberger_portraits05_copy.jpgeichelberger_portraits06.jpg
In the above photos the techniques I used were as follows: Experiment with lighting, alter your perspective, introducing a prop, playing with eye contact, playing with emotion, and focusing on a body part.

Project 2:For project 2, I really wanted to do something that was themed with the Fur Rondezvous. Since the ice skating show Rondy On Ice was happening and I figure skate, I thought it would be an awesome idea to take photos of the ice show. I added a twist to the photos and made them double exposures through photo shop. I really liked the photos I had taken of the guest skaters, Agnes Zawadski and Lukas Kaugars, along with a local figure skater I know, Ohna Korshin, but as soon as I made those photos double exposed, I fell in love with them.eichelberger_doubleexposure01_copy.jpgeichelberger_doubleexposure02_copy.jpgeichelberger_DoubleExposure03_copy.jpg
Ohna Korshin, 16, (above left) shows of her layback spin and her ending pose; Lukas Kaugars, 18, (above right) flexin' for the ladies and shows off his massive jumps; Agnes Zawadski, 18, (bottom left) ending her program and shows off her flexibility in her biellmann spin.

Project 3:
For project 3, I decided to do senior portraits of my friend Coral. I emailed a few photographers, some nice and some not so nice, but I ended up getting a lot of excellent feedback on how to execute good senior portraits. One photographer I emailed, Marcos Gutierrez, was really helpful and gave me excellent tips on lighting, positioning, and facial expressions. I am pleased with how they turned out and my friend loved them too.
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Project 4:
For my project 4, I originally had planned to do a love story showing a couple as kids, teens, adults, and as an old couple, sadly that didn't work out so I decided to do fitness photography. Now in photo 2, it was mandatory for us to do a project in film so I had to do this one in film. Working with film is literally the hardest thing you will ever do. I had so much trouble with my film, it cam out of its container and got exposed to light which ultimately ruined the film so I ended up calling my model, Katie Haxby, back and asked her if she could do another shoot. I'm going to be honest I did the second shoot, got them developed, and edited them the night before they were due. Words of wisdom, DON'T DO THAT. So here I am up until 2:30 in the morning the day that they are due, still editing them and choosing which photos I wanted to turn in, I am one lucky duck since I got them finished within a 6 hour time period. I am amazed that they turned out how they did and my model loves them too.
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Photoshop Tutorials:In photography 2, we were able to use Photoshop, I personally liked using Photoshop because it let me get rid of all the imperfections in the original photo. Some people might not like it, but I loved it.

Brightness and Contrast:In brightness and contrast, you take a photo that is too dark or too light and you edit the brightness so it's the right exposure, and take the contrast and make it so that your subject doesn't look dull or over powering.eichelberger_before_copy.jpgeichelberger_after_copy.jpg
In these photos, I took a photograph that I took in photo 1 and edited the lighting to make it brighter and made the contrast go up so that she has a flesh toned kin color. I wanted to make her eyes pop because she has beautiful blue eyes but you could see the area I selected, I used the blur tool and blurred her eyes and what was unintentional became a pretty good piece of art.

Blemishes:
Everyone has blemishes and photo shop allows you to take them away. You want to use the tool that looks like a band-aid and go around the persons face selecting each blemish and make them have clean skin.
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In these photos, I used a picture that I had taken on my trip to Washington, D.C. and edited my friends face to make it appear as though he has a fairly clean face.

Dodge and burn:
In the dodging and burning tutorial, you learn how to make certain details brighter or darker. If you need someone's eyes lighter, you want to dodge them and if you want them darker, you burn them.
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In these photos, her eyes are already standing out, but I felt they needed to be accentuated more so I dodged the whites of her eyes, burned around her eyes so it looks like she's wearing eyeliner, and then sponged the colored part, sponging something is where you can saturate something to bring out the true colors in it or desaturate and take the colors out.

Selecting Portions of an Image:
In this tutorial, you select an area of a photograph and copy and paste it onto another photo.
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In these pictures, I decided I want her looking at the camera. I selected the eyes from a different photo that I took and pasted them onto this photo, I made it look as though they are her real eyes and that she's looking towards the camera.

Color Corrections:
In color corrections, you take a photo and use the sponge tool to enhance any color that is desaturated. You don't want to over do it because it can look like a total disaster.
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In this photo, I decided her eyes were too desaturated so I took the sponge tool and made them more saturated which brought out the gold-ish brown color out to make them pop.